May 13, 2011

(Watch) How To Install A Ice Line From A Reverse Osmosis (RO) To A Refrigerator




An ice line from a reverse osmosis water filter to a refrigerator ice maker and cold water dispenser provides water that is much purer than water run through an inline carbon filter or water run through built in refrigerator filters.  Inline carbon filters and built in refrigerator filters remove chlorine, organics and particles which greatly enhances the taste of the water.  Reverse osmosis water filters remove lead, PCBs, herbicides, pesticides, drugs, hormones etc. in addition to chlorine, organics and particles.  If a refrigerator has a built in water filter the water is filtered by about 50%. Water from a reverse osmosis system is filtered by about 95-99%.  To provide bottled quality water to a refrigerator the water must be processed through a reverse osmosis filter system. 

     To install an ice line:
  1. Determine if there is a route to run 1/4" plastic tube from the reverse osmosis system to the refrigerator without laying the tube on the floor across entryways and walkways.
  2. Remove everything from the bottom shelves of all the base cabinets between the kitchen sink and the refrigerator.
  3. Drill 1/2" holes through the cabinet walls in the back of the cabinets 1" above the bottom shelf.
  4. Run 1/4" plastic tube through the cabinets from the reverse osmosis filter to the refrigerator leaving an extra 3' of tube at the reverse osmosis filter end and an extra 4' of tube behind the refrigerator.
  5. Connect the tube to the refrigerator using a 1/4" brass nut, an insert in the end of the tube and a 1/4" half lip ferrule inside the brass nut.
  6. Connect the tube to the reverse osmosis filter with a tee in the tube going to the RO faucet.
Using plastic tube for reverse osmosis water is preferred over copper tube because reverse osmosis water is so pure that it will leach a metallic taste out of copper tube.

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(Watch) How To Replace An Angle Stop (Shut Off Valve) Under Your Kitchen Sink




An angle stop is a shut off valve that is used to turn on and off the hot and cold water supply under the kitchen and bathroom sinks.  Angle stops are also used to turn the water supply to the toilet on and off.  An angle stop should be replaced if it leaks, if it is corroded, if the handle won’t turn or if the handle turns without coming to a stop.  

     To change an angle stop:
  1. Turn off the main water supply to the house.
  2. Turn the faucet on the release the water pressure, then turn the faucet back off.
  3. Remove the flex line to the faucet, the ice line to the refrigerator, the dishwasher connection - everything that carries water from the angle stop.
  4. Hold the compression nut on the copper pipe with a wrench and hold the angle stop body with another wrench.
  5. Unscrew the compression nut from the angle stop body.
  6. Leave the compression nut on the copper pipe unless it is too corroded to reuse.
  7. Take the angle stop to the store to buy the exact replacement size.
  8. Screw the existing compression nut on the new angle stop using a wrench on both the compression nut and the angle stop body at the same time. (It usually requires a lot of effort to tighten the compression nut enough to prevent a leak. While applying a lot of pressure on the wrenches to tighten the compression nut, care must be taken to apply the pressure to both wrenches in a manner that neither slips off.)
  9. Reconnect the flex line etc. to the angle stop.
  10. Turn the angle stop off. 
  11. Turn on the main water supply to the house about 20%.
  12. Check the angle stop for leaks.
  13. Turn the angle stop on and check for leaks.
  14. Turn on the main water supply to the house 100% and check for leaks.
    It is a good idea to briefly glance at the plumbing under the sink and smell for any dampness each time the cabinet is accessed.  Preventive maintenance under sinks is much less expensive than replacing water damaged cabinets. 
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    (Watch) How To Turn A Reverse Osmosis System (RO) Into An Alkaline Water System




    Alkaline filters contain a completely natural form of energy that emanates from certain minerals, the most effective being the semi-precious gem, Tourmaline.  Far Infra Red energy has the ability to soften water, to negatively charge it, and to restructure it into smaller molecular clusters which may assist in hydration of the body.

    “Structured water” has a high oxygen content, is highly soluble and can readily absorb minerals, trace minerals, and vitamins.  Alkaline technology continues to increase in popularity.

    According to author Ray Kurzweil, member of the National Inventors Hall of Fame, Alkaline Water has extended benefits beyond increasing the pH of water.  He states that the Oxidation Reduction Potential (ORP) is the most important benefit.   The Oxidation Reduction Potential (ORP) reading is an indicator of how bio-available and bio-absorbable a product will be.

    The lower the reading below 0 millivolts (mv), the more ions are available to assist with metabolic functions.  A very high negative ORP is desirable because it is very useful at attacking dangerous free radicals and stops them from harming healthy cells.

    Alkaline filters are available and may be installed inline with an existing reverse osmosis filter system to produce Alkaline Water.

         To install an inline alkaline filter:
    1. Turn off the feed water supply valve to the reverse osmosis filter.
    2. Turn off the ball valve on top of the storage tank.
    3. Turn on the reverse osmosis faucet to release water pressure, then turn it back off.
    4. Locate the tube between the reverse osmosis filter and the reverse osmosis faucet and cut it about 12" from the reverse osmosis filter.
    5. Note the water flow direction arrow on the alkaline filter and point the arrow towards the reverse osmosis faucet.
    6. Insert both ends of the cut tube in the alkaline filter.
    7. Turn on the ball valve on top of the storage tank.
    8. Turn on the feed water supply valve.
    9. Check for leaks.
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    (Watch) How To Re-Inflate or Re-Pressurize A Storage Tank To A Reverse Osmosis (RO)




    A reverse osmosis (RO) storage tank has a rubber bladder inside that holds the purified water. Pressurized air between the inside of the metal storage tank and the outside of the bladder squeezes against the bladder and pushes the water out of the bladder, through the tube between the storage tank and the inline carbon filter, through the inline carbon filter, through the tube between the inline carbon filter and the faucet, then through the faucet.

    A storage tank should be re-pressurized if the storage tank has water in it but the water won’t flow out of the faucet. If a storage tank won’t hold air for a few months at a time it should be replaced with a new storage tank.
    1. Turn off the feed water supply valve.
    2. Turn off the storage tank valve.
    3. Turn on the RO faucet to release pressure.
    4. Disconnect the storage tank tube from the tee on the inline carbon filter.
    5. Pump enough air into the storage tank to start pushing water out of the bladder. Continue to add air as needed to push all of the water out of the storage tank.
    6. When all of the water has been removed from the storage tank, pump 5 to 7 psi of air into the storage tank.
    7. Reconnect the storage tank tube to the tee on the inline carbon filter.
    8. Turn on the storage tank.
    9. Turn on the feed water supply valve. (It was take about 2 hours to fill the storage tank.)
    10. When the storage tank is full, turn on the faucet to check the water flows strong out of the faucet and the storage tank will empty.
    11. Check for leaks.
      If the water flows strong and the storage tank empties and the storage tank stays pressurized for a few months then it might provide service for another year or more. Typically once a storage tank starts leaking air it only gets worse over time. Eventually the storage tank must be replaced with a new one.

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